Looking for (Otter) Parasites

Looking for (Otter) Parasites

The back of my neck felt as though it was burning to a crisp in the afternoon sun.  I took a break from the microscope and stood up long enough to pull up my shirt collar, stretch my legs, and glance at the sky.  The sun had begun to sink on the horizon.  Soon the mosquitoes would be on the attack, and we still had to make the drive back to Karanambu.  Or maybe it would be a boat ride.  I wasn’t sure.

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Lucy working at the microscope while Stefy prepares samples, at Caiman House Research Station, Yupukari, Guyana

I called over to Stefy (Dr. Stephanie Zanet) to ask her how many samples we had left to read.  “Just the repeat exam on Bel and Bandit,” she answered.

Though this was only Stefy’s fifth day in the Rupununi, she seemed completely at ease.  She had everything organized.  On a table nearby, she’d set out a row of plastic bags of otter poop, each labeled with the patient’s name, a box of clean slides, a cardboard box punched with holes that served as a test tube rack, and a container of sugar water used to run the test known as a “fecal float.”

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Our parasitology lab at Yupukari

We’d set up our makeshift lab at Caiman House, in the Makushi village of Yupukari, having traveled there specifically to use their spare microscope.  Fortunately, we arrived in time to find the malaria technician at his desk  and he willingly loaned us his special equipment.  I was ecstatic.  For the first time ever in the Rupununi., I found myself looking through a microscope  Never mind that it wasn’t electric.  We had plenty of sunshine to aim at its old-fashioned mirror.

But the light wouldn’t last forever.  I sat back down and peered once again at the slide.  Seconds later, I found our first parasitic egg.  It was in the sample from Buddy.
“Wow! ”  I exclaimed.

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Stefy (Dr. Stefy Zanet) preparing samples for fecal analysis

Stefy ran over to take a look.  This was our first positive finding, and, in a paradoxical sort of way, we were both excited.  It meant our crude methodology had worked, at least to the extent that we could identify a parasitic egg in a two-day- old sample collected from an orphaned giant otter, using the late-afternoon Rupununi sunshine to light up an old-fashioned mirror microscope.

From that moment on, I had no doubt that Stefy would do just fine during her two-and-a-half-month stay as a visiting veterinarian at Karanambu.  She’s volunteering her time, and, as I see it, her visit is step in the direction of a one-health program for the ranch.  My guess is that she’ll find plenty of eggs as she examines more samples.

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Buddy at the Karanambu landing amidst the daily laundry routine

The orphaned otters at Karanambu cross paths all the time with both dogs and people.  We know that each species is likely to have its own set of parasites; even so, the first step is to confirm that this is indeed the case.  The next is to determine which ones are moving across species lines.  If we find that parasites are being passed from one to the other, there’s a good chance that a re-introduced orphaned otter could pick up a new parasite and introduce it to the wild otters.  We can—and do—deworm the rehabilitated otters, but this was the first time I’d had a chance to document the reason for doing so.

Bel and Philip otters at KBO

Orphan otters Bel and Philip in their pen at Karanambu

The challenge has always been the logistics of obtaining and running the samples.  During Stefy’s upcoming stay at Karanambu, there will be at least three orphaned otters, a crab-eating raccoon, five domestic dogs, three cats, and a dozen people—perfect timing!   We should soon have some answers.

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A strongyle-type egg in the fecal sample from giant otter Buddy

Hoping to document the first egg, Stefy grabbed her digital camera.  This technique works surprisingly well, as you can see from the photo above.  But unfortunately, the light in the microscope’s ield of view wasn’t bright enough.  The angle of the sun had changed enough to throw everything out o=of whack.  I struggled to brighten the image, but my options were limited.  I moved the mirror, then my body, head, and neck, and, eventually, the whole table, trying to capture just the right amount of light.  When I got too much, the whole field went black.  Meanwhile, my sample was drying rapidly in the hot sun.

Thinking quickly, Stefy produced a tiny flashlight, reminding me that she’d had to do this in Rwanda when the power supply burned out.  She was still in vet school then, visiting the mountain gorilla project from Italy for a senior-year internship.  I found her a great help with the orphaned gorillas, and when I heard she was looking for more wildlife experience, I suggested she give Karanambu a try.

I’m sure she’ll be blogging about her experiences on Saving Otters very soon—and quite possibly in Italian as well as English.

After our parasitology session, we returned to Karanambu by boat.  Though we didn’t see any otters, we passed by several of their dens, or holts.

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A holt in use by wild giant otters, Rupununi River, near Yupukari

As usual, we saw plenty of wild caiman.  In my next post I’ll write about going out out night “caimaning” (a new verb) with the experts at Caiman House.  I’ve put their website up on the blogroll.

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Two caiman alligators, seen on our way back to Karanambu by boat from Yupukari

New Orphaned Otters

New Orphaned Giant Otters

It’s dusk at Karanambu.  The generator is buzzing, parrots are squawking, a pair of blue-grey tanagers is whistling, and a hungry giant otter is calling for food.  I’ve been here just two days, and already I can’t get the sound of “ree-ah, re-ah, ree-EE-AH” out of my head.

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This call belongs to Bella.  She’s a female, about two months old.  At least I think it’s hers.   Her cry sounds a bit more demanding than that of the little male cub, Philip.  He’s a few weeks older at two-and-a-half months.

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At 11 pounds, Philip weighs twice what Bella does, and yet she appears to be in charge.  In this photo, they’re playing around in the water at the Karanambu boat landing .

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Bella’s call also carries a slightly higher pitch.  I’m always surprised to hear such an ear-piercing sound from the mouth of an adorable-looking animal like this one.  In this photo, she’s eating a bit of fish.

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Phillip is not only larger, he’s also got huge ears.  He’s equally endearing—until he tries to bite.  Of course it’s natural and normal for a wild otter cub to snap its teeth at a human toe or finger—or anything that looks like a piece of fish.  As this photo shows, Phillip already has a set of sharp teeth.

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Though she’s the smaller and younger of the two new cubs, Bella tends to get her way, pouncing on Phillip to steal a bit of fish.  Instead of retaliation, he screams “re-ah, ree” and lets her take it.  Though the two are inseparable, as shown in this photo, they’re unrelated.  Each was taken illegally from the wild.  They were captured to sell as pets.   When the village leaders found out, they ordered that the cubs be sent to Diane for rehabilitation.

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The new cubs stay together in a pen next to the one where Buddy lives.  He’s at least two years old now, and much bigger, as shown in this photo.  These living arrangements will remain in place for some time.   There have been accidents before—some fatal—between large resident orphan otters and new arrivals.   There’s a wire mesh panel between the pens so that the otters can safely see and smell each other.  It’s a strategy that has worked quite well, so much so that Buddy is now offering bits of his own fish to the cubs by placing it next to the mesh on his side.

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Buddy has grown a bit since I last saw him in July.  Sadly, he’s lost his eyesight in the meantime.  Apparently someone hit him on the head with a piece of wood.  Though we don’t know what happened, we suspect he may have tried to bite a hand instead of a fish.  This is one of the many risks inherent in attempting to rehabilitate a wild animal.  Even though it lives among people, it’s still wild. The reddish eye shine in this photo is abnormal.  I’m afraid there’s nothing we can do to change the outcome, though I’ve sent a number of photos to a veterinary ophthalmologist for review.

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When we brought Buddy here from Iwokrama six months ago, Diane and I feared he was too imprinted on humans to return to the wild.  Now without vision, he has no chance.  The good news is that he seems very well adjusted to life at Karanambu.  He spends his days swimming down at the river—and fishing—as shown in this photo.  He uses his sense of smell and touch to find his prey.

At this hour, it’s unlikely we’ll hear from Buddy.  He was fast asleep when I left the otter pens a few minutes ago.   As soon as the sun sets, even the little otters will quite down for the night.

More About Bandit, Karanambu’s resident crab-eating raccoon

Here’s a bit more about Bandit, from Pat who emailed me yesterday from Karanambu.

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Apparently, Bandit’s attitude has improved somewhat in recent months.  Pat reminded me that the raccoon had been neutered last June, just a few weeks prior to my visit.  At the time, she wasn’t sure it had made much of a difference.  I had said to give it a little time.  It can take months for testosterone-driven behaviors, like unpredictable aggression, to change after castration.  Then again, some of this behavior is learned.  I also recommended that Bandit be left in his pen on the days when Karanambu Lodge is full of visitors given that he is still a wild animal with sharp teeth.  Also, raccoons harbor a type of parasite, a roundworm known as Balisascaris, that can be fatal to people.

Pat and Diane took my advice, but as you can see from the photos, the raccoon is still out and about more often than not.

This is yet another reason I’m working establish a one-health conservation program at Karanambu.  Preventive medicine for all, such as regular de-worming, would be part of the effort.  Indeed, the first phase of the program will be to identify key indicators of health for the animals, the North Rupununi ecosystem, and its people.  We may find that Balisascaris, or other parasite infections, are problems that we need to monitor.  (Please consider a donation to help me get this program off the ground!)

Bandit’s surgery was done by Dr. Bruce Langlois, a veterinarian who heads up a volunteer spay and neuter program that is adminstered by RAM: Remote Area Medical.  RAM itself is an interesting story.  Thirty years ago, in the mid ’70’s, its CEO, Stan Brock, wrestled alligators and jaguars for the television cameras–in his bare feet–while Marlin Perkins narrated what was happening on “Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom”.

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I met Stan at Karanambu several years ago.  Here he is standing next to the small plane he flies while in Guyana.  Stan and Diane have been friends ever since he started RAM.  As it turns out, Stan grew up in Guyana and made the decision early on in his career to find a way to help the Amerindian people living in the country’s remote areas.  He created a non-profit, RAM, in order to fly medical doctors into the Rupununi to provide basic medical care.  Soon he turned his attention to Americans.  His organization was recently in the news for hosting a jam-packed free health clinic in Los Angeles.

Here is a link to RAM–but before you go there–here’s what Pat wrote to me about Bandit.  She also sent me two photos with captions, also below.
 http://www.ramusa.org/index.html

From Pat:

“His [Bandit's] behavior has started to tone down somewhat, which is not to say he isn’t still into everything and anything, but the aggression is slowly turning to hospitable behavior.  The Bandit still enjoys his oat meal breakfast, but now before breakfast he enjoys having his tummy scratched.  He is also spending most of his days doing what raccoons do best, sleeping in a tree during the day, then coming in in the evening to await his fish escort to his house [pen], where he spends the night. He has a new playmate in the form of a 6 month old puppy. The boys take turns playing tag on their morning walks, before the Bandit decides that it’s nap time.  Check out the pictures Lucy will be posting of the Bandit and his new interest in Office Management.”

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Here Bandit is investigating the wireless router at Karanambu.  Pat’s caption for him: “Huston I may have a problem here!”

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Bandit soon moved on to Pat’s computer.  Here caption for this one: “Can someone please tell me how to scroll these otters off here?”

Another Karanambu Orphan: Bandit the Crab-Eating Raccoon

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Bandit, a crab-eating raccoon at Karanambu in Guyana, South America

On most of my visits to Karanambu, the first creature to sniff my feet is an otter.  But the last time I visited, it was different.  I found myself receiving a welcome from a species I’d met only once before, at the Guyana Zoo in Georgetown.  Bandit, shown here, is a crab-eating raccoon (Procyon crancrivorous).  Someone living in a nearby village apparently took him from the wild as a tiny kitten.  Not surprisingly, Bandit failed to thrive.  When Diane heard the report of a sick raccoon, she asked that it be brought to the ranch.  Unfortunately, it turned out that Bandit was already too imprinted on people to return to the wild.   He’s also blind in one eye–the result of someone hitting him on the head.

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Pat walking Bandit at Karanambu

Bandit is just a bit spoiled!  Pat, who manages Karanambu’s computers and helps arrange bookings for tourists, helped raise the raccoon along with Diane.   Though Bandit stays in a pen at night, he runs free during the day.  So his daily routine is similar to that of an orphan otter, with one exception: raccoons are nocturnal.   In this photo, Pat is starting Bandit off on an early morning walk.  The challenge is to keep him from sleeping all day.  Otherwise, he’s all revved up at night when it’s time for bed.

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Bandit ready to pounce on imaginary prey

I normally start off my day at Karanambu with a short jog or a walk—before the sun gets too sharp.  Diane and Pat suggested I take Bandit with me.  I was surprised when he agreed to go, as I was a complete stranger to him..  He trotted behind me for a while, then ran ahead so he could be in front.  I took this photo when he stopped short of a clump of dense vegetation and sat up on his haunches looking for something—maybe a tasty bug.

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Bandit running ahead of me on our walk

Bandit and I went walking on several occasions.  I was fascinated by his behavior.  Though this species is sometimes called a raccoon dog because of its long legs, I think the legs give him a cat-like quality.  Every time he took off, leaping through the tall grass, I had to laugh.  In this photo, he’s made a dash for the bushes, running as low to the ground as possible.

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Bandit playing his favorite turn-on-the-water game

Like the North American raccoon, Bandit is also very dexterous.  As you can see in this photo, not only does he know where water comes from, he knows how to turn on the tap.  Indeed, one of his favorite games is turn-on-the-water.  The problem with Bandit—this is part of his nature–is that he can, and will, bite.  He (sometimes) listens to voice commands from Diane and Pat, but not from everyone else.

The first time I found Bandit in my bathroom sink playing with the water, I knew not to try to handle him.  I tried calling his name, but to no avail.  Next I turned on the shower, thinking the sound of the water would lure him away.  This proved to be a brilliant move, at least initially.  Bandit leapt off the sink and scampered into the shower area.  Then he noticed me standing nearby, charged at my legs, grabbed my ankles with his hands, and threatened to nip.  I knew he was only trying to play.  Even so, raccoons have very sharp teeth.

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Bandit

Before I could extract myself from Bandit’s game, the raccoon instantly put two holes in my pant leg–though not my skin.   From that day on, I decided to keep a water bottle in my pocket whenever we went walking.  At first I tried squirting the water at his nose when he got too rambunctious.  This did nothing.  Indeed, he seemed to like it.  I soon learned that it worked much better to lower the bottle down to his nose level and squirt the water out in front of him.  He would would bat at the droplets going by and forget about my pants.

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Bandit killing a lizard near the Rupununi River

I was reminded just how wild—and potentially dangerous—Bandit is when he hunted down a lizard.  We were on a walk with Diane along the path that leads down to the Rupununi River when he took a sudden turn, dove into a pile of sand, pushed one hand deep into a hole, and pulled his victim out.  He proceeded to play with it in catlike fashion, as you can see in this photo.

Next time, I’ll post some photos of Karanambu the place, its people, and the other animals—both wild and domestic–who share Bandit and Buddy’s home.

PS: I did a quick Google for “crab-eating raccoon in Guyana” and found this blog entry from a guest who visited Karanambu last year and had her own Bandit adventure when he found the beef jerky in her knapsack.  I suspect there are others out there!  Here’s the link: http://juliezickefoose.blogspot.com/2009…

New Orphan Otter Learns the Karanambu Routine

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Buddy, a young male giant otter, eating his first fish breakfast at Karanambu.

Diane was determined that Buddy should begin learning a few lessons on Day 2 of his stay at Karanambu.

The first was where to poop and pee.  His designated otter latrine was a recessed area of cement in one corner of the pen.  Diane began the latrine training by placing a small pile of Buddy’s scat in the appropriate corner. This strategy works well for some otters, but Buddy had his own ideas.

When we checked on him the next morning, he’d used the middle of the pen.  Diane pretended to scold him, though her tone was soft.  “Oh, my, you terrible little otter, you.  That won’t do!”
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Buddy depositing his scat–in the wrong place

Diane cleaned up the mess on the floor, and poured some straight Pine-Sol over the area so that it would horrible.  Unfortunately, this didn’t work.   Our next idea was to put bricks in his way–I spread them out in the places where he’d made his mistakes.  This method also failed, as you can see in this photo.

We estimated it would take Buddy a good two weeks to get it right.  All we could do was to repeat the same routine until he figured it out.

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Diane drying Buddy with towels.

The second lesson Buddy had to learn was that it’s okay to be dried off by a human with a towel.  The idea here is to make sure the otter doesn’t go to sleep with wet fur.  In the wild, they’d normally dry themselves by rolling in sand before crawling into their dens, or holts.  Buddy responded as if this were a new game.  He’s playing with Diane and the towels in this photo, while she is trying not to get bitten.

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Buddy’s fly strike wounds the day after his arrival at Karanambu

For his fly strike, I checked Buddy’s wounds each day for fresh maggots, and started him on the antibiotic ciprofloxacin.   The good news was that I found only three larvae on the second day, and none thereafter.  The bad news was that he hadn’t yet stopped licking himself, which meant he could easily develop a new infection.  Diane and I were still optimistic that his behavior would change once he got into the routine of spending most of his day on the river.  Buddy took his medicine easily–we simply hid the tablet inside the stomach of one of his fish.

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Buddy eating his fish outside the pen.

By Day 4, Buddy had learned to follow Diane in and out of his pen.  This meant he was ready to be taught that fish are eaten outside, either at the water bowl—as shown in this picture—or down at the river.  This saves both time and water.  Now, during the wet season, there’s enough water to empty and refill his pool in order to clean it as needed.

In the dry season, though, this can be a major issue.

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Buddy following Johnny down to the river

To help her take care of Buddy, Diane chose several of the boys who live on the ranch, including two of Ryol’s sons, to be the otter “capatashes.”  In some ways, these kids have the best part of the job.   Though they do have to clean the pen—and go fishing at least once, if not twice a day—they also get to swim with Buddy.

The next step was to teach Buddy to follow Diane and the boys down to the river for a swim.  He readily accepted this new routine, as shown here.  Indeed, by the second day, he was enjoying the outing so much that he began to resist returning to his pen for the night—even for bits of fish offered along the way.  It may be that sooner, rather than later, Buddy will be sleeping out on his own.  It’s his choice.

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Buddy and the boys playing fetch

Diane’s ongoing challenge is to keep the otter capatashes from getting so distracted by other things, like just being boys that they forget to keep an eye on Buddy.   The fact is they’d be down at the river swimming and hanging out whether they were supposed to be taking care of the otter, or not.  Yes, they’re paid for the work, but it’s a tiny amount of money (it’s for this reason that we’re trying to raise money for the Karanambu Trust–to help with these costs.)

Judging from his behavior, Buddy had obviously grown up swimming and playing with children.  From my perspective, this was a good thing, as it made it easy for the boys to show interest in him.

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Diane playing get-the-mango with Buddy

Perhaps the most important lesson for Buddy is to come when he’s called.  In some ways, Diane has little control over him at this stage, compared to her nurturing of the orphans she raised from young cubs.  This means that if he gets into trouble, by following a boat, for example, she may not be able to call him back.  If he weren’t so tame, maybe this wouldn’t be such a bad thing.  After all, the goal is for him to return to the river as a wild otter.  But an animal of his size that thinks every fish belongs to him is asking for trouble in the midst of so many fisherman.

One thing Buddy did learn quickly – how to play with mangos.   I was amazed how quickly he learned this game!

Buddy – Orphaned Giant Otter – Arrives at Karanambu

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Orphaned giant otter cub, Buddy.

By the time we arrived at Karanambu, it was close to 9:00 p.m.   I couldn’t thank Ryol enough.  Between navigating the roads, cutting up the tree, and dealing with three nervous occupants, he’d done a magnificent job for all of us.

Diane and I carried Buddy to his pen.   He’d been awfully quiet for the last hour.  We hoped that he’d simply tired himself out.  But until we let him out of the carrier, we couldn’t be sure.  At least he’d soon have access to fresh water, dry towels, and a pile of fresh fish.

Buddy’s home for the next few days would be a rectangular brick-walled pen with a shallow pool, a drying platform made of bricks and covered with towels, a “sprainting” area, or otter latrine, in one corner, and in the other corner a den made of a metal drum turned on its side.   His was one of three such pens, arranged side by side, all under one large thatched roof.

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Buddy’s otter pen at Karanambu – the bricks are spread around to keep Buddy from using the central part of his pen as a latrine.

Diane and I agreed it would be best to keep Buddy locked in the pen for several days, until he developed a stronger bond with her.  That way, we could be certain of medicating him for his fly strike.  We both had the feeling that he might take one look at the Rupununi River and take off—never to be seen again.  The least we could do was send him off healthy.

When Diane first started rehabilitating orphans, there were no otter pens.   In fact, when I first encouraged her to build them, which must have been about ten years ago, she hated the idea.  She preferred to keep the orphans with her in the ranch house.  If there were a lot of  visitors around, or if she had to go off and do something on the ranch, she’d lock the otters [!] in her bathroom, even when  they’d outgrown the need for round-the-clock care.  But they frequently escaped, creating  exciting but often dangerous situations.  Having an essentially wild animal underfoot at the dinner table didn’t always go over well with guests, or with the ranch staff.  People had been bitten.  Fights had broken out between older and younger otters, and one such interaction had proved fatal.  On another occasion, an orphan injured himself by jumping off a brick wall.

The otter pens were nothing fancy, but they served their purpose.  They were built by a group of volunteers from Canada with donated funds.  The pens allowed Diane to separate individuals if necessary, and to introduce a new arrival safely to a resident otter.  They worked well as secure sleeping places for the orphans not only at night but also during the heat of the day (there were no caiman alligators or fisherman at the pens).  And for new arrivals like Buddy, they’d proved to be escape-proof—as long as everyone remembered to latch the gate.

Unfortunately, weather and time have taken their toll on the otter pens.  The roof desperately needs new thatch–as does every other roof at Karanambu.  If we ever get the fund raising rolling (please consider a donation!), roof repairs will be a top priority.  In the meantime, at least there’s plastic.

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In this photo, Ryol and his sons are repairing a gaping hole just above Buddy’s head by stretching a piece of plastic over his pen.

We set Buddy’s carrier on the floor in the middle of the pen and spread out a few fresh otter towels (laundered but still full of smells), keeping our flashlights directed at the walls so as not to blind the otter.   I opened the door of the carrier, expecting him to dart right out.  Nothing happened.   Then Diane tossed a piece of fish onto the cement floor in front of the crate–and whoosh, out came Buddy.  He devoured that fish, and two more.   Next he turned to investigate his pen.  We heard him let himself into the pool and blow a few bubbles.  Then he was back out, rolling around on the towels.

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Buddy immediately recognized both the pool and his drying off spot.

In the dim light, I could see the scrape on his nose from fighting the carrier, but the damage was minimal.  Overall, he was in surprisingly good shape.  We left him looking as though he’d fall asleep at any minute.

Indeed, Buddy was still sleeping when Diane and I checked on him the next morning.  He woke up quickly, though, as soon as he heard us rustling about outside his cage.  Seconds later, he was asking for fish: “Reah, reah, ree—aah!”

Diane normally lets the otters out of their pens to eat their meals, in the interests of keeping the pens relatively clean and less fishy-smelling.   But this wasn’t an option with Buddy, since we weren’t sure we’d be able to get him back in.

Ryol’s three sons and two daughters had appeared by this point—everyone was curious to catch a glimpse of the new otter.   Diane went inside the pen with Buddy to feed him while the rest of us watched from the outside.  Once again, he devoured his fish, took a brief dip in his pool, and rolled around in his towels.

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Aside from his scraped nose, photographed here for the record, Buddy was no worse for wear after his long car ride.

His next move was to use the middle of the pen floor as his latrine.  Diane gently scolded him that he should have gone in the corner, like every other proper otter.  She cleaned up the mess and placed a small amount of his scat in the appropriate place, explaining that this would help him figure out where he was supposed to go next time.   At this point, I had every reason to believe that Buddy would soon learn Diane’s rules.

Moving Buddy: Part 2

Once in the transport crate, Buddy immediately started trying to get out.  He jammed his nose between the plastic frame and the metal rim of the door, and pushed, creating a space almost large enough for his head.  Thank goodness for those bungee cords.  Even so, it looked as though he’d soon be successful.  Without thinking about how much the thing weighed, I grabbed the crate and carried it as fast as I could to the Land Rover.  If Buddy escaped into the back of the car, at least he couldn’t run straight for the river.  (The next day, I had a very sore lower back.)

Now I was really anxious to get going.  I ran back to Diane and tugged at her arm, pulling her away from her goodbyes and apologizing that I felt we simply had to get on the road.  It was already after 11 o’clock and getting hotter by the minute–and  the drive to Karanambu would take at least seven hours, if not longer.  It had rained overnight, so there was no way we’d try the shortcut on the way back.

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Transporting Buddy the otter from Iwokrama to Karanambu in the old red Land Rover

As we climbed into the Land Rover, I urged Diane to sit next to me on the middle seat so that we could both tend to Buddy in the back as needed.  I felt we should leave him alone for now; most animals settle down once they feel the rocking motion of a vehicle.  Diane disagreed.  She insisted on being next to the crate so that she could speak to him soothingly.   This meant sitting on a hard, narrow seat with very little room for her long legs.

I argued with her, reminding her that she’d broken her hip badly in a car accident last year.  The last thing she needed to do was sit in an uncomfortable position for a long bumpy ride.  I also felt that the sound of her voice would only upset Buddy more.  But I was overruled.  Before I could stop her, Diane had climbed into the back next to her new beloved beast.   She took a book out of her bag—the signed copy of The Rhino with Glue-on Shoes I’d just given her—and decided to read the otter a few stories!
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Diane McTurk with Buddy the otter in his transport crate–about to read RHINO

While Diane spoke softly to Buddy, I covered his crate with a towel to give him some shade and arranged things so that he could catch a little breeze from the open windows.   We had a long drive ahead, and the main risk to his health was overheating, or hyperthermia.  Fortunately, the weather appeared to be cooperating.  It was partly cloudy, and would stay that way for most of our drive through the rain forest.

As I’d feared, Buddy reacted to the sound of Diane’s voice by scratching even harder at the door and crying, “Raa Raa Reeahh,” which translates to “I want”—to get out of here, or to eat some fish.  Diane responded with, “Oh my poor beloved beast.  You must be famished.  We barely fed you any breakfast.”   She turned to me.   “Can’t we feed him just a tiny piece of fish?  He’s asking for it.”

“Nope,” I said.  “No way.”    I had to hold my ground on this one.  Since I was along for the ride as a vet, there had to be a few rules.  Feeding the otter would only create a mess (otters almost always poop after they eat), and might even make him carsick.  Though Buddy was in good body condition, the last thing he needed was to slide around in a fishy crate.  Instead, I squirted some water into the crate, and he readily drank it.   I repeated the offering, this time with the tip of a soda bottle.  To our amazement, Buddy went right for it, figuring out how to wrap his lips around the plastic nozzle.
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Buddy, a juvenile male giant otter–before his transport from Iwokrama to Karanambu

Diane continued talking to Buddy.  There’s something about the sound of her voice that otters find irresistible—unfortunately, in this case, as it draws them to her.  The more she spoke, the more upset Buddy became.  Soon he was screaming loudly and biting at the wire mesh.  Now he was at risk of damaging his teeth, as well as overheating from becoming so frantic.  I repositioned the towel, tried to distract the otter with more water, and asked Diane, rather firmly, if she could please just not say a word, at least not for a while.   She nodded reluctantly.

As I turned back to the front to refill my water bottle, repeating that I thought we’d all be better off if she’d sit in the middle seat with me, Diane exclaimed, “Oh, no!  He’s out!”

Buddy had pushed his nose against the top of the crate with such force that the upper hinge of the crate door popped out of its hole.  Seeing a glimmer of light, he pushed harder, creating a hole big enough for his head.  I lunged toward the crate and jammed door back in place, holding the top part in place with my thumbs.  Buddy was not about to give up.  He went for the bottom hinge, popped it free, and had his whole head out the bottom half of the door before I body-blocked him back inside.  At that point, all I could do was crouch in front of the crate door and hold it in place with both knees and hands.  Somehow we needed to get the hinges back in their holes.

By then Ryol had stopped the car.  He looked back at us and asked if he could help. Diane and I replied, in perfect unison, “Oh no, everything’s fine!”

Actually, it helped a great deal not to be flying over all those bumps in the road while we got ourselves readjusted.  Diane grabbed the water bottle and managed to distract Buddy long enough for me to tilt the metal frame of the door and slide the hinges back in place.  Phew.  I asked Ryol how much longer.  The sooner we got to Karanambu the better.  He frowned and said, “About four hours, maybe five.”

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The main road (Lethem–Georgetown), near the turn-off to Karanambu

We continued on, but the otter had figured out what to do, and seconds later he was back at it.  From that point on, our seating arrangements took on a new configuration.   I sat in the back on top of the crate, so that my weight would keep pressure on the doorframe.  Whenever I felt Buddy moving about, I bent down and held the hinges in place with my thumbs.  It was uncomfortable, but not unbearable, and I was determined to ride it out.  Diane moved into the middle seat and, with some difficulty, remained silent.

Finally, Buddy settled down.

Much as we would have liked to make it back to the ranch before dark, that just wasn’t possible.  The road was bumpy, and Ryol could drive only so fast.  By the time the sun had set, we’d just turned off the main road toward Karanambu.  With about an hour left to go, we hit our first major roadblock of the day—a downed tree.  Ryol dutifully got out of the car, grabbed his machete, and began to cut down a massive tangle of wood and brush.  He left the Land Rover running of course, since the starter was still broken.  Within minutes I could barely breathe.  The fumes were awful in the back where I sat with Buddy.

Together, Diane and I moved the otter’s crate out onto the road at a little distance from the car—and there I sat, in the pitch dark, on top of a plastic dog crate containing a giant otter.  Before long, I noticed that his breathing was slow and steady.  Free of the bumps and rattles, he’d fallen sound asleep.

Silently, I asked myself a familiar question:  What in the world am I doing here?  The answer came quickly, as it always does:  when the animals need our help, it’s our responsibility to do what we can.  There’s no reason we can’t live in balance with nature and its creatures.  We just have to try.  I hoped we’d met our last obstacle of the day.

[To be continued. . . .]





Moving Buddy: Part 1

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Now that we’d met Buddy, the next step was to make sure everyone agreed that the best thing for him would be to move him to Karanambu.  I had mixed feelings about this, and so did Diane.  For one thing, he would be free to leave her ranch at any time.  He might stay for a day, or two, and leave.  As such, we couldn’t guarantee his long-term survival.  Moving Buddy to Diane’s wouldn’t protect him from the many threats facing a semi-tame orphaned giant otter, including attacks from caiman alligator, wild otters, and people.

For another thing, because Buddy technically belonged to the Amerindian couple that raised him, Diane wanted to make sure that they, and the village Touchou, understood the risks associated with moving him.  One thing was certain:  Buddy was exceptionally tame.  When I took this photo, he didn’t miss a chew.

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As a vet, I felt strongly that Buddy shouldn’t be living in the local village—the source of the flies.  If he continued to suffer from fly strike, the problem could lead to a severe infection that could be life-threatening.  What he needed was a clean place to sleep at night, and someone to look after him on a daily basis.  For the next week, he also needed antibiotics in the fish he was fed.  So far, the Iwokrama staff had taken excellent care of him and they were willing to continue.  As such, I didn’t feel Buddy had to be moved right away.   In this photo, we’re removing another maggot.

But these were young scientists with full time jobs doing other things (for more about the research station, see this link).  We talked about what would be required to take care of Buddy in the longer term, and it became clear that Iwokrama simply didn’t have the resources.  The staff that had befriended him didn’t have time to fish for him twice a day.

We considered hiring someone to take care of Buddy, but the setting—a combination research station and logging concession—didn’t seem right.   The otter would either become a nuisance animal, or he’d move on in search of fish and new human friends, and be killed in the process.  Finally, no one else has Diane’s experience in successfully returning orphaned giant otters to the wild.

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The difficulty about recommending a move to Karanambu was that all five of Diane’s most recent orphans had died or disappeared within weeks of returning to the river.  Wild otters killed at least two of them, including the female in this photo, Sappho.  There’s a lot of sadness associated with wildlife rehabilitation.

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Diane’s success in protecting the local otter population has created an unexpected problem: we think some of the orphans are leaving her ranch at a younger age because they have more opportunities to do so—more wild otters to follow.  As a result, they’re “going wild” before they’re strong and fast enough to survive interactions with wild animals, and before they’re sexually mature enough to find a mate.  Dangers include the animal in this photo, the black caiman, which often preys on young otters.

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The recent losses have all involved very young otters, like the six-month old female in this photo, Tsunami.   Again, the deaths of at least some of these much-loved orphans are, ironically, a direct consequence of Diane’s success as a conservationist.  There are now more wild otters around Karanambu than ever before, which means more competition among them for territory.

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Of course, the whole idea of Diane’s program at Karanambu is to give orphaned giant otters a chance to return to the wild.  Buddy would follow the same program she’s developed over the years.   He’d have a safe pen at night to return to and plenty of fish to eat, thanks to the young boys at the ranch who would fish for him.  As you can see in this photo, they’re quite good at it!  As I mentioned earlier, like every orphan before him, he’d be free to leave the ranch when he was ready.

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With these thoughts in mind, Diane met with the Touchou and Buddy’s former owners right after breakfast.  They quickly agreed that Buddy should be moved.  Their decision was based largely on the fact that he was already too humanized for his own good.  Though Buddy was tame, he was also more than capable of mistaking a human hand for a piece of fish.  In addition, his littermate had already killed one valuable bird, and had herself been killed in retaliation.  Understandably, the Touchou could not guarantee Buddy’s safety.  At least at Karanambu his movements could be monitored, and he would no longer have access to a village (or a research station) full of people wanting to make a pet of him at their own risk—and his.

With the decision made to move the otter, I was anxious to get going.  The sun was rising and I knew we had to drive the long way in order to miss the muddy savannah.  The drive would take at least 7 hours, maybe longer.  After a few adjustments to the crate, we were ready.  I felt as though Diane and I were the only ones who really understood what was about to happen.  We hadn’t fed Buddy all of his breakfast.  Plan A was to lure him into the crate.  It would be much better and safer not to anesthetize him.  But otters are smart and if he figured out what we were up to, he could just as easily take off for the river.  Plan B was to lure him into the bathroom where I would inject him with anesthetic.

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As Buddy followed Diane’s hand into the crate, I gritted my teeth and slammed the door shut—just in time not to catch her fingers and to keep his powerful body inside.  As expected, he didn’t like the feeling of confinement.  He wheeled around and nearly popped the door off with his nose.  I grabbed two bungee cords, wrapped them around the crate for added security, took him straight to the Land Rover, and suggested we leave right away.  The sooner we got going the better.

To be continued…

A New Giant Otter Orphan: Meet Buddy

During our short drive from the airstrip to the ranch, Diane relayed what she knew about the orphaned otter. It was a young male that had been begging for fish at the Iwokrama research station for several days. The staff there had befriended him, and named him Buddy. But they were concerned about what would happen to him in the long run. He’d been hand-raised by an Amerindian family in a nearby village, along with a female giant otter. The female, probably his sister, had been killed by one of the villagers after she killed someone’s pet bird. Buddy was chased out. Since then, he’d been begging for fish along a short stretch of the river for several days.

By the time we pulled up to the main house, Diane and I had already made a plan. We would leave the next day for Iwokrama to meet Buddy, and discuss with everyone there whether or not we should move him to Karanambu. If he wasn’t too wild, we could transport him in a plastic dog kennel. Or I could anesthetize him, a prospect that made me uneasy, given the heat and other logistical challenges.

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We asked the ranch manager, Ryol, if he thought the Land Rover could be ready for a road trip by the next morning. He smiled and nodded, then added that he hadn’t gotten around to fixing the last flat tire. He would get the spare fixed on the way. In this photo, Ryol is doing a little last-minute maintenance.

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A big change at Karanambu since my last visit is that the ranch now has now Internet access. What a difference it makes! I immediately sent an E-mail to Iwokrama to learn more about Buddy, including how much they thought he weighed. Based on the photos they sent, we estimated the otter to be between one and two years old, and to weigh 35 pounds—about half the weight of an adult. Here is he is in a photo taken a week later at Karanambu. The boy is Denton, one of Ryol’s sons.

The research staff at Iworkrama also relayed some worrisome news: Buddy had multiple wounds around his rear end that were infested with fly larvae. Ick! They said they’d been able to pull out some of the maggots with tweezers. This didn’t make sense to me. How could they perform something so painful without giving the otter anesthesia? He must be weak, or sick, or both. (They saved the maggots so I could photograph them.)

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It sounded to me as though Buddy had flystrike—an infestation of fly eggs—and maybe a bacterial infection on top of it. My guess was that these were screwworms, maggots that burrow into healthy tissue. The flies are usually found around (human) garbage and livestock pens. This would fit with Buddy’s history of having grown up in a village. Alternatively, wild otters might have attacked him at some point. They tend to go for the rear legs and tail.

Iwokrama wanted to know if they could treat the wounds with a purple fly spray marketed specifically for screwworms. Absolutely not, I e-mailed back! The product, called Mata Bicheira, Portuguese for Bug Killer, is a dangerously strong organophosphate.

The more I thought about picking maggots out of the rear end of an otter, the more I worried about Buddy’s overall condition.

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The basic treatment for fly strike is just what the Iwokrama staff had begun doing: pick out the maggots. Sometimes nothing more is needed. But in severe cases, it may be necessary to anesthetize the patient and do surgery to remove damaged tissue. Anesthesia wouldn’t be easy, but at least I knew how to do it—and we had a small supply of the necessary drugs. Years ago, I’d developed a protocol for giant otter anesthesia. My first patient was Georgie, shown here, at the Georgetown Zoo in Guyana.

By six o’clock the next morning, Diane, Ryol, and I were ready. We’d packed the Land Rover with a variety of supplies, including the plastic dog kennel to use as an otter transport crate. Despite the fact that July is supposed to be one of the wettest months of the year in Guyana, it was a partly sunny morning with no rain in sight.

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As we headed out across the savanna, Diane and Ryol discussed our route. Since it hadn’t been much of a rainy season so far, they decided to take a dry-season shortcut. Two minutes later, the Land Rover lurched to a halt, its tires stuck deep in a surprise patch of mud. Fortunately, we had a few passengers hitching a ride who lived nearby. Diane asked one of them to run ahead and find a few Karanambu vaqueros (cowboys) who could use their horses to pull us out of the mire. As the sun started to burn the back of my neck, I thought, no way is that going to happen. Minutes later, I was pleasantly surprised! I learned the true meaning of Horse Power, as shown in this photo.

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We made it to Iworkrama after a relatively uneventful ride (we had a flat tire an hour after getting the spare repaired.) Buddy hadn’t been seen all morning, which made us all nervous. Fortunately, we didn’t have to wait long—he showed up at the boat landing an hour later, squealing for fish.

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Buddy not only had a great appetite, he was also exceptionally tame—this photo was taken without a zoom—which meant that his chances of surviving around Iwokrama weren’t good. Diane and I worried that he would soon become a nuisance at the field station. If other otters didn’t kill him, there was a good chance that people would.

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I was relieved to see that Buddy was generally in good health aside from the fly strike, which I couldn’t see while he remained in the water. As this photo shows, he has some old scars on his neck. There’s also a place where I can feel what I think is a fragment of a bullet or a pellet lodged under his skin. Fortunately, it’s small, and even if it’s made of lead, it shouldn’t do him any harm.

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Soon I had my answer as to how anyone could safely pick maggots out of Buddy’s rear. The otter came up to the staff housing area to dry off, then curled up in a ball and began to suck on his private parts. “Oh, no, he’s a pervert!” Diane exclaimed. Absorbed in this unattractive occupation, Buddy made it easy for me to examine his wounds. We also picked out a few more maggots.
Such behavior is unfortunately common among hand-raised carnivores—otters, foxes, and raccoons, for example. It can start early as displacement nursing, or later as the animal begins to mature sexually, and can become an ingrained, or stereotypical, habit associated with boredom. As you can tell from Diane’s reaction, she’d encountered the problem before. Two of her earlier cubs, Pluto and Persephone, nursed on each other’s tails and ears for a few months, a behavior that stopped once they went wild.

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With the otter on his back, I could see another problem. Buddy had worn pink, hairless areas along the inside surface of each rear leg. The problem is visible in this photo on his left rear leg. I had a pretty good idea why—it had to do with his abnormal suckling behavior, in which he repeatedly scuffed his rear feet on the ground. The fly strike made sense, too. Buddy had been keeping his rear end moist and/or exposed, and this had attracted the flies.

With the veterinary part of the exam completed, I stepped away to let Diane spend some time with Buddy. She quietly sat down near him, spread out a few often-used otter towels from Karanambu, and invited him to a drying session. She spoke softly, in her special otter voice. Though they’d been laundered, Diane knew the towels would still smell of otter to Buddy. He flung himself onto them and rolled around, drying his back and head. He and Diane became instant friends.

As the sun set, we walked Buddy down to the boat landing. The Iwokrama staff thought he’d been sleeping underneath one of the boats. This bothered Diane, who likes to give her adopted otters a safe den at night. But there was nothing we could do except continue with our rescue plan. Having met Buddy and assessed his health, we agreed that moving him to a new environment at Karanambu might be enough to break his abnormal suckling behavior. He certainly wasn’t on death’s door, despite the maggots. The move would at least get him away from the screwworm flies.

The next hurdle was to ask the village leader, or Touchou, for his recommendation. In this region of Guyana, the wildlife belongs to the local people, meaning that Buddy’s future rested with the village family who’d initially raised him. Diane planned to meet with the Touchou and the otter’s owner first thing in the morning. If everything was a go, our plan was to lure Buddy into the crate with a piece of fish. If that failed, I could easily inject him with anesthetic during one of his distracted behavior sessions.
[To be continued. . .]

To Karanambu

When Diane McTurk and I first met in 1997, she was taking care of an orphaned Giant Otter named Peter. I spent several days at her home, Karanambu, a cattle-ranch-turned eco-lodge that also serves as a part-time wildlife rehabilitation center. Soon we were talking otter nonstop. I’d worked with hundreds of wild River Otters during my residency training in North Carolina, and Diane had, over the years, raised and released several dozen orphaned wild Giant Otters. This is an old photo of us from that year, weighing Peter.

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Lucy with Diane McTurk & Peter at Karanambu, Aug 2004

During that first visit to Karanambu, I fell in love with the Rupununi region of Guyana. I’ve returned at least once a year, except during the period I spent in Africa. Diane and the Giant Otters are part of the reason I keep coming back. But so is the place itself.

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Map of Guyana

As shown in this photo below, the Rupununi River runs right through the ranch, which includes 125 square kilometers of savannah. Karanambu is home to a wide variety of plants and wild animals, including hundreds of species of tropical fish; domestic animals include horses, several hundred head of cattle, and increasing number of village dogs, cats, and chickens. The ranch staff is mostly Macusi Ameridian, and there are three Macusi villages nearby.

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Rupununi River, near Karanambu Landing, Guyana

My last trip to Guyana was in October 2006, just before I started as the regional veterinary field manager for MGVP, Inc. (see Gorilla Doctors on Wildlife Direct.). I guess it’s no surprise that within two weeks of returning home to the U.S., I was back on a plane in July—this time to South America.

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Rupununi River as seen from a plane, near Karanambu, Guyana

I arrived just in time for the rainy season. As shown in this aerial photo, taken as we circled to land at the Karanambu airstrip, water is everywhere. The rains flood the savannah and fill the Rupununi River, widening it to the point where it overflows in some places. The result is a maze of ponds and marshy areas. With so much water, the fish can go anywhere, and so can the otters. Instead of driving across the savannah, we switch to boats.

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Diane McTurk with Tsunami (left) and Sappho (right)

Most of the orphans Diane has rehabilitated are discarded pets, animals that got too big, too hungry, and too dangerous, for their owners. In this photo, I was trying to get a decent picture of Diane with two recent orphans, Tsunami (left) and Sappho (right.) The otters, of course, had their own ideas. Diane never planned to become a wildlife rehabilitator, but she has a special touch with animals. Over the years, she has made it her life’s mission to give every orphan a chance to return to the river. In the process, she shares them with any and all who visit Karanambu. It’s for this reason that Diane is sometimes known as “the otterly delightful lady of the Rupununi.”

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The North Rupununi Savannah & Wetlands

Getting back to Guyana was important to me for a special reason: my experiences in central Africa convinced me that “one-health medicine” can work for dozens of species, not just gorillas. As I see it, the way to protect the Giant Otter is to ensure that we’re meeting the needs of all who live in the same ecosystem. The health of the otters is linked to that of people, their domestic animals, the environment, and other wildlife.

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Alvin with fresh lukanani (striped bass)

For example, across much of South America, Giant Otters (Pteronura brasiliensis) are perceived by the local people as competitors for fish. This is true to a certain extent, but many of the fish species eaten by otters are not the ones preferred by humans. (This photo is of Alvin, a member of the Karanambu staff, who catches fish specifically for the orphans.)

Among the 13 species of otter found worldwide, the Giants are among the most endangered. They are also the largest in terms of absolute body size. Giant Otters can weigh up to 45 kg (100 lbs) and measure up to six feet in length—a third of which is the powerful tail. They can consume up to 20% of their body weight in fish a day (several kilos.) They are also highly territorial and live in large family packs, like wolves. In fact, in Brazil, the Giants are known as River Wolves (Lobo in Portuguese), and in Guyana as Water Dogs.

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Buddy, a young orphaned male Giant Otter

Being fearless, adult Giant Otters are easily killed by fishermen—who may then capture their cubs to keep as pets. But it’s usually only a matter of time before the growing otters kill a chicken or bite a child. At that point, if they’re not killed in retaliation, they are brought to Diane, who teaches them how to fish and swim in their native habitat, the Rupununi River. Eventually, they leave the ranch, following wild otters. Though some don’t survive attacks by caiman alligators, territorial otters, or angry fisherman, many do.

As the plane readied to land at Karanambu on my recent trip, I figured this wouldn’t be an otter-filled visit. After all, it was the rainy season, and I knew Diane didn’t have any orphans on hand at the moment. But that didn’t matter–I was eager to reconnect with everyone at the ranch and to hear about Diane’s plans to turn it into a protected area. At the same time, I knew something unusual would happen. It always did.

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Buddy at Karanambu

Sure enough, during the short drive from the airstrip to the main house, Diane explained that we might need to go rescue an otter. A tame male otter had been hanging around the Iwokrama Forest Lodge, [a six-hour drive from the ranch.] and had become something of a problem. “What wonderful timing for your visit,” she exclaimed. “ Evidently he needs to see a vet!” As you can see from this photo (taken later in the week), the problem was not immediately obvious. [To be continued. . .]